Panorama Trail from Glacier Point to Yosemite Valley
Submitted by Tom on Sat, 2007-09-08 15:31.
Yosemite Valley and Rim
Trail Facts
Quality:
Good (3/5)
Scenery:
Excellent
Crowds:
Fairly Quiet
Difficulty:
As a one-way trip to the Valley, it's mostly downhill, but as an out and back from Glacier Point, you need to climb back up from Illouette Creek at the end of your day.
Distance:
7.8 miles. to Happy Isles via the Mist Trail. Add a mile for the JMT. 10 miles round trip from Glaicer Point
Route Type:
Bus Shuttle
Elevation Gain/Loss:
500/3000
Elevation Min/Max:
4000/7000
Trailhead:
Glacier Point
Running:
Rolling trail (2 out of 5) See the notes for runners below
References:
Schaffer, p. 238-240
Highlights
More than one person has told me that this is her favorite trail in Yosemite, but I certainly wouldn't go that far. It does, however, offer nice views, a pleasant stop at Illouette Creek and, if you take the hiker's shuttle to Glacier Point, is mostly downhill. It is also relatively uncrowded compared to the other trails to the top of Nevada Fall.
What's to See?
Details
The easiest way to do this by far is to take the shuttle to Glacier Point, and then just hike eight or nine miles down the Mist Trail past Nevada and Vernal Falls to the Valley. If you want a longer day, you could hike up the Four Mile Trail, and then down the Mist Trail for one of the best spring tours in Yosemite.
If you park at Glacier Point and do it as an out and back trip, remember that you will have to climb about 1000 feet up out of the Illouette Canyon at the very end. It's not a steep trail, so it isn't that bad. That said, it's been my near undoing a couple of times. One Memorial Day I had to park and Sentinel Dome (so it was almost 2000 feet to climb at the end) and hiked out to Merced Lake and back (30 miles) and was just whupped coming back up those last hills. Another time, Theresa and I hiked out to Obelisk Lake and back (approx. 40 miles, with a fair bit of slow cross-country travel) and had to hike back up to the car at 1:00am. I still kid her about making me park in the "shady" spot. Yep, it was still shady at 1:00am. Anyway, just remember that if you are returning to Glacier Point, you have that climb at the end, so save some energy. Also be aware that the slopes are sun-drenched until fairly late in the day, so coming back up the initial slopes in the heat of a mid-summer day will likely be unpleasant.
If you haven't been to Glacier Point, you'll definitely want to start your walk by just sucking it up and adding the 100 yards of wheelchair-accessible trail to your walk for one of the great views in all of North America. It is, frankly, that much more stunning in the winter with snow on Half Dome and if you are a skier at all, you should consider coming back for a Glacier Point ski tour. With that out of the way, head back toward the parking lot, but stick to the left and find the dirt trail that quickly leads you to a junction. The right branch goes up to Sentinel Dome and the left takes you down the Panorama Trail.
The Panorama Trail starts out as a long gentle descent on very long switchbacks. In 1.4 miles you reach the junction with the Buena Vista Trail which takes you up and around to Buena Vista Pass or out into the Clark Range. Our route swtiches back and descends another three quarters of a mile or so to Illouette Creek. Just before the Creek there is a nice view of Illouette Fall. This lookout once had a steel rail and all that, but it slid off into the abyss a few years ago. The ground here has stabilized somewhat in the past couple of years, but this is not a place to go playing around the edge.
It isn't legal to camp at the creek, though people do all the time. It's a nice place to stop and I've seen a family actually haul one of those coolers on wheels down here. The usual cautions about going in the river apply: you are just a short ways from the top of Illouette Falls and if you slip on the mossy rocks and get swept downstream, death awaits you. It's that simple, though this is not nearly as dangerous a place as the tops of Vernal and Nevada.
Cross the bridge and start heading uphill. As you approached the creek, you finally got off the open scrub slopes of the first part of the trail and into some forest. As you work back up from the creek on the more northerly aspect of the canyon, you'll have fairly decent shade and some nice forest for your climb. The total gain is only a couple of hundred feet and the climb is gentle and consistent.
You'll have views back to Glacier Point, but as the trail flattens and rounds to the true north of Panorama Point, You'll start getting better and better views of Half Dome, Liberty Cap, Nevada Falls and the Merced River Canyon. You will shortly reach the trail that cuts over under Mount Starr King and from this point on you will once again be going steadily downhill and starting to get some really great scenery. You're in the sweet spot here: the views are great but you have not yet encountered the circus-like atmosphere of the Mist Trail. Take some time to linger here when you have a nice view so that you can enjoy Half Dome and Nevada Falls in peace.
After some thin cover, you go back into thicker forest and steeper descent down some switchbacks to the trail junction with the John Muir Trail. You can simply turn left and head for the Valley, but that would be a shame. You should go out to the Nevada Falls lookout and, assuming you can handle a well-developed but nevertheless quite steep descent, you should descend by the Mist Trail if you've never done it (and regardless of whether you've done it or not if the river is in spring flood, because you can't ever tire of that). Se the Mist Trail page for more information.
Runner's Notes
I have to admit that I've never really tried to run the Panorama Trail as far as I know, but it is never too steep or too rocky, so it should be a reasonable run. The bummer is that you either start out on a downhill, which I hate, or you have to run a pretty steep trail to get there. I think the best option would be to start at Happy Isles, run up the JMT rather than the Mist, then up the Panorama Trail, and down the Four Mile Trail. If I have added right, that would be very close to a half marathon, with 3000' of elevation gain and loss.
Not a good hike for bad knees.
Submitted by Courtney (not verified) on Thu, 2008-06-12 04:30.
After much research, the Panorama Trail was my husbands and my latest adventure in Yosemite. He has bad knees and after the 4 Mile Trail caused him some discomfort last year, he prepared this year by working out and wearing 2 knee braces. We took the bus to Glacier Point to hike the trail down. The trail was very enjoyable and fun until we began out decent from Nevada Falls. We took the stone staircase down to Vernal. At first, you cannot tell how long the staircase is and just when it looks to end to a dirt trail, it begins again. By the time we reached Vernal Falls he could barely walk. After resting, we decided to go down the Mist Trail to just get it over with (instead of catching the Muir Trail). When we reached the foot bridge, he really was having a hard time. We really had to take our time to get to Happy Isles.
My recommendation to anyone with sightly bad knees is to buy the walkers poles, wear knee braces, and know your limits! I am not sure how much walking poles would have helped my husband but I know for sure it would not have made it worse ( I ended up finding a stick for him to use near the end of the trail).
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How much exposure
Submitted by Goog49 (not verified) on Tue, 2008-07-01 13:45.
I'll be hiking in Yosemite with my wife in August. We're planning on doing the Panorama Trail downhill. She's not very good with exposure - ledges and such. How much is there on the Panorama Trail?
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I don't really know how to
Submitted by Tom on Tue, 2008-07-01 23:24.
I don't really know how to answer since I was once travelling with a guy who got sick to his stomach if looking off a second-story balcony of a French château. So it depends on your definition of exposure.
In any case, there is little to none for the Panorama Trail itself. The Illouette Falls overlook is optional.
After that, the one spot that might get you on the downhill would be stairs by Vernal Fall on the lower Mist Trail. There are railings on the exposed spots, but it might still be unsettling to someone with a real fear of heights. Still, it's nothing like the Half Dome Cables, the Yosemite Falls overlook or the backcountry trails without railings and such. It's more the kind of exposure you get touring some of the cathedrals of Europe. Here's a picture of the Vernal Falls stairs, but there are some steeper ones just after this spot and I don't have a picture. Might have to run out and take one.
If that sounds too scary, your other option is to go down via the John Muir Trail, there is one spot that has a significant dropoff, but the trail there is dead flat, wide enough for horses and people to pass and has a stone railing, so I think pretty much anyone can get down that. She can hug the solid rock wall and stay five feet from the railing if she wants to.
So, if she would be scared on a long staircase without railings or looking over a dropoff with a railing, she might not be comfy on the Mist Trail. If she can handle about a quarter mile with steep, relatively safe sections like that, it's probably worth it. If she can't, you should at least cross the footbridge and go to the Nevada Fall overlook without her before heading down the JMT.
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Boots for Panorama Trail
Submitted by goog49 (not verified) on Tue, 2008-07-22 17:00.
The thought hit me that the photos of the trail itself show it to be very flat, and apparently paved, or gravel. Will I need to pack my good 3-season hiking boots all the way from the East Coast just for this trail? If I take up suitcase space for them, I'm going to get some blowback from the rest of the party if the trail "goes" really well with sneakers!
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I'm probably the wrong guy
Submitted by Tom on Wed, 2008-07-23 01:40.
I'm probably the wrong guy to ask. I hike pretty much everything in trail running shoes unless I need crampons or long gaiters, and have for most of my life. All I can say is I own some nice, comfy leather hiking boots and I never wear them in Yosemite unless I think I'll see a fair bit of snow. The trail is indeed quite a highway (not paved though) and, as is typical here, less mud and roots and such than out on the Long Trail or Appalachian Trail. The big reason that people choose beefier footwear, especially if with a pack, is all the little rocks. Over time, you feel them through flimsy shoes and it can make you somewhat more footsore.
Personally, if I were going to do one thing for my feet, I would pick up some shorty gaiters. My wife loves (and I will soon buy but haven't yet) her Dirty Girl gaiters. Don't be put off by the jarring website (you'll see what I mean). These things are absolutely great for the gravelly trails we have here where you're always getting stones in your shoes.
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By hiking up the Four Mile
By hiking up the Four Mile trail, across the Panorama trail, and down the Mist trail, you very nearly recapitulate John Muir's "Excursion #1" from "The Yosemite". All you have to do is add side trips up Sentinel Dome and Liberty Cap, and you have fast-packer John's idea of the best one-day hike in the Park!